the coloured stripes

The term given to stripe fabrics in which the different coloured stripes are all the same width; generally silk cloths are meant, but cotton Pekin stripes have been made. The goods are for the China markets. In the Bradford trade, Pekin stripes are manufactured from cotton warp and worsted weft, in many stripe arrangements and numerous qualities. One cloth is made 48 ends and 58 picks per inch, 2/100's fast black cotton warp, 24's mohair weft.

Fabrics made with cotton warp and silk weft in which the cotton warp is entirely cohered by the silk weft. Usually a weft satin weave is adopted. The silk weft is in very brilliant colours and makes varie-coloured stripes across the cloth.

Striped cloths made all cotton; cotton and rayon; cotton warp and wool weft; all wool; all silk; and used for pyjamas. The designs are wide and often have very boldly coloured stripes. The qualities are numerous.

Fabrics made from coconada coloured cotton, grown in India. The cotton is a naturally coloured fibre and sometimes called Red Coconada. Much of the cotton is used locally in plain fabrics. When used in Lancashire, colour stripes are added and the cloth given a firm finish, although it is sometimes shipped in the loom state.

Coloured cotton cloths shipped to the Near East, plain weave, about 64 ends and 52 picks per inch, 18's T., 20's W. The designs are mostly dark stripes in which dark-blue predominates. The cloth is very rough, due to the poor quality warp and the heavy size.

Patterns produced by weaving coloured threads on the face of the cloth and then allowing them to disappear behind for a distance. The stripes resemble printed lines, but are more regular.

A term denoting stripes that are woven with coloured wefts across the piece (see Crossover)

An American term for a cotton cloth made from coarse coloured yams, generally blue and white or brown and white, and 2 X 2 twill weave. Used for working shirts and pants in many of the States. Made 28-in. wide. The finish is soft and clothy.

bụnt [bʊnt] 1. 2. 1. 2.

Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed. ▪ Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave. The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes

Highly-glazed cloth with broad coloured stripes, plain weave, usually 25-in. wide, and used for skirtings. The ends per inch are more than picks in order to give deep coloured stripes. One quality is woven 51¹/₂-in. splits 84 X 60, 36's/34's, 50 to 80 per cent fast washing colour in the warp.

Plain weave cotton fabric woven in coloured stripes 36-in. 8 yards, 80 ends and 128 picks per inch, 60's T., 40's W. When indigo or green is used the count is 50's. Other colours most in favour are grey, turkey red, chocolate and yellow. The colours are not fast. The feature of the cloth is that some of the warp yarn bleeds during finishing and tints the grey weft which gives a solid colour effect. ———————— There is a certain class of dyed cotton goods hand-woven on native looms in Madras known as " Madras Handkerchiefs." Their principal use is as dress for the native women of several of our Colonies and elsewhere. The real Madras handkerchief has a peculiar smell which never entirely disappears. Lancashire can and does produce a handkerchief at a much lower price than the hand-made article, but Lancashire cannot reproduce the smell. Owing to the absence of this smell Lancashire cannot compete, and today the native will pay twice as much for the real handkerchief, recognised by its smell, as for the Lancashire article. The hand-loom weavers in the Madras Presidency produce a large quantity of these fabrics and the style was invented there. The European variety is an imitation. The native-made fabric is 36-in. wide and 8 yards long, woven ends and 128 picks per inch, warp usually 60's grey, turkey red, yellow, chocolate, and 50's indigo and green. The weft is 40's both grey and coloured, weight about 26-oz. The yarns are generally imported grey and dyed locally with the one exception of turkey red. The colours are loose in the warp so that the grey weft is tinted. These hand-made fabrics are still better in handle and style than the imitations and are preferred in the Indian markets.

An all-cotton, plain weave fabric woven from dyed yarns in stripes and checks. Examples for various markets are: - The widths, qualities and designs are numerous, as nearly all plain checks or stripes can be placed under this heading. The colours are fast to washing and the cloth is Scotch finished. In each case the coloured yarn is the same counts as the white. The name is derived from Gingamp (France) where the cloth was first made in Europe, being introduced from India.

A furnishing fabric with brocade effects on a warp satin ground. The warp is made from two-fold cotton in coloured stripes, and a gold coloured rayon weft is used. The rayon weft forms the figure on a satin ground. The ends per inch are about 2¹/₂ times more than the picks.

A heavy jute fabric used for stair covering. Plain weave with warp face. Yarns are coloured to form stripes in the warp and black weft is always used, and they are printed in floral or geometric effects, in colours to blend with those of the woven stripes. They are close set in the reed and the warp covers the weft threads.

A cotton and rayon dress fabric, made with 76 ends and 72 picks per inch, 150 denier rayon weft, 2/80's colour 2/80's white warps. Dents are left empty at short frequent intervals among the coloured ends, and the rayon weft is floated over the spaces, forming lustrous stripes down the piece. The white ground stripes are 3 X 1 twill weave.

A cotton cloth, plain weave, with brilliant coloured stripes down the piece. Used in the East as scarves or loin cloths. Made with fancy headings at each end of the piece, which varies from 5 yards to 7 yards in length. The colours are fast to washing and light. Made about 60 to 66 ends and 44 to 50 picks per inch, 40's warp, 30's to 40's weft. The more recent designs are broad black and white stripes with a capella heading 18-in. wide, stiff finished. Width about 24-in.

A shirting cloth woven with the 2 & 2 twill weave and with coloured stripes, The genuine Harvard has the 2 & 2 weave all through. There are many so-called Harvards in which stripes of plain, matting and other twills are used. A good quality is made 64 ends and 60 picks per inch.

A striped cotton cloth made for India. Alternate stripes are plain and satin in various widths. Sometimes very narrow coloured stripes are placed between the plain and satin. The cloth is made in many qualities.